How to Fix Brassy Hair: A Professional Guide for Bright, Balanced Color

Brassy hair is one of the most common concerns for blondes and brunettes. Whether your hair turned orange after highlighting, or your balayage became warm over time, brassiness happens when warm underlying pigments become exposed. As a master colorist in New York City, I specialize in correcting brassy tones and bringing hair back to a beautiful, balanced shade.

In this guide, I’ll explain why brassiness happens, how to prevent it, and the best professional strategies to fix brassy hair safely and effectively.

Why Does Hair Become Brassy?

Brassiness appears when the warm underlying pigment in your hair becomes visible. This can happen for several reasons:

• Previous color fading (gloss/toner washed out)
• Bleaching or lightening without reaching a pale enough level
• Hard water minerals
• Sun exposure
• Heat styling
• Incorrect at-home products

Everyone’s hair has natural warm pigments (red, orange, yellow) — when these show through, hair looks brassy.

How to Fix Brassy Hair Professionally

1. Toner or Gloss Refresh

A toner or gloss is the fastest way to correct brassiness. It neutralizes unwanted orange or yellow tones and restores a clean, balanced color.

• Purple-based toners cancel yellow
• Blue-based toners cancel orange
• Green-based toners cancel red

Most clients need a gloss refresh every 4–8 weeks to maintain tone and shine.

2. Color Correction

If the brassiness is strong or uneven, a professional color correction may be needed. This can involve:

• Re-toning
• Adding lowlights for balance
• Softening harsh highlights
• Targeted lightening to remove darker warm bands

This ensures your color looks blended, dimensional, and healthy.

3. Blue or Purple Shampoo (Used Correctly!)

At-home purple or blue shampoos can help maintain tone — but only when used properly.

• Purple shampoo = Cancels yellow
• Blue shampoo = Cancels orange

Use 1–2 times per week, not every wash, to avoid over-toning or dryness.

4. Hard Water Removal

Mineral buildup from hard water causes brassiness and dullness. A professional clarifying treatment instantly removes:

• Minerals
• Product buildup
• Environmental pollutants

This prepares the hair for clean, even toning.

5. Balayage or Highlight Refresh

When highlights grow out too much, brassiness becomes more visible. A partial balayage refresh softens lines and adds brightness where needed.

• Brightens dull ends
• Adds soft dimension
• Blends out warm bands

This keeps your color looking fresh and expensive.

How to Prevent Brassiness

• Use sulfate-free shampoo
• Gloss every 6–8 weeks
• Avoid hard water (use a filter if possible)
• Limit hot tools
• Protect hair from sun exposure
• Use color-safe products

Frequently Asked Questions

Why did my balayage turn brassy?

The toner faded, or your natural warm pigment started showing through with time.

Can I fix brassy hair at home?

You can maintain tone, but the best results come from professional toning or correction.

Does purple shampoo fix orange hair?

No — purple cancels yellow. For orange tones, you need blue-based products or toners.

Why does my hair turn brassy so fast?

This often happens from heat styling, buildup, or using the wrong products.

Can brunettes get brassy?

Absolutely — brunettes often experience red and orange undertones when their color fades.

Book a Professional Tone or Color Correction in NYC

If your hair is looking brassy, uneven, or too warm, I can help bring it back to a clean, balanced, beautiful shade. Book your toning or color correction appointment at Fabi Pro Beauty in Midtown Manhattan.

Book now →